Armstrong Garden Centers

Artificial Grass Before And After

Fri, 11 May 2012 13:06:22 +0000

See how artificial grass can turn your water from a water-loving, chore to a virtually maintenance-free green oasis that is guaranteed for 15 years when installed by one of our California licensed artificial turf experts.

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Putting Greens

Fri, 11 May 2012 13:00:25 +0000

Practice your golf game in your own backyard with a putting green. Our artificial turf experts will come to your house and design your perfect putting green based on your skill level. The combination of a high-quality turf with lined metal golf ball holes set in concrete will give you a putting green that will last for years.

Use:	Putting Greens
Weight:	30 ounces per square yard
Gauge:	3/8 inch
Pile Height:	9/16 inches

Putting Green Top View

Putting Green Side View

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Fescue Supreme Artificial Grass

Fri, 11 May 2012 12:55:59 +0000

The best of the best. Fescue supreme is a denser artifical grass that looks as lush as a well manicured golf course.

Use:	landscapes
Weight:	71 ounces per square yard
Gauge:	1/2 inches
Pile Height:	1 3/4 inches

Fescue Supreme Side

Fescue Supreme Top

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Fescue Artificial Grass

Fri, 11 May 2012 12:46:39 +0000

Made from a blend of polyethylene monofilament and texturized polyethylene fescue is the standard of landscape artifical grass. Child and pet friendly.

Use:	Landscape or Dog Runs
Weight:	50 ounces per square yard
Gauge:	3/8 inch
Pile Height:	1 3/4 inches

Fescue Side

Fescue Top

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How To Install Artificial Grass

Fri, 11 May 2012 12:40:26 +0000

Here are the 10 steps to installing artificial grass. For the best looking lawn follow each step and be sure not to take any short cuts.

1. Clear any existing grass or vegetation on area for turf, spray a weed killer or grass blocker solution to ensure that no vegetation will grow under the turf area in the future. Armstrong Garden Centers recommends weed cloth. If possible, do this step several days before installation to ensure you removed all weeds.

2. Once you are ready, apply crushed stone aggregate or decomposed granite. You can purchase this at your local rock yard or building supply warehouse.

3. Once the crushed stone is applied, you will want to make sure the base is as level as possible. A water sod roller may be useful for this step. They are available for rental at most Armstrong locations.

NOTE: It is important to remember that the turf will be applied on top of this crushed stone base, thus any undulation on the surface will be visible once the artificial turf has been applied. It is also important to remember that the crushed stone will aid in the drainage properties of the system, so a slight slope is recommended for proper drainage but not necessary.

4. Once the crushed aggregate is compacted and level, use a 15-25 year weed barrier. Lay the weed barrier down using landscaping staples.

5. Once you have laid the weed barrier, roll out the turf according to your area measurements.

NOTE: It is important to lay the turf with all grass fibers or blades going in the same direction to ensure that all pieces of turf match up.
*This step may not apply if you do not have multiple pieces or sections of turf.

6. Make cuts in the turf using a standard carpet or box knife to fit the turf to desired area. You are essentially cutting the turf to create the exact shape of your area, so the fewer pieces of turf used the better; this will eliminate seaming pieces together.

In the event you need to seam the turf together we recommend a 4"-6" indoor / outdoor carpet seaming tape or 6” landscape staples.

7. Now you are ready to attach the turf to your base. To attach the turf to the base use 6" galvinized nails. Drive in the nails 1/2" to 1" from the turf edge and every 4" to 6" along the turf perimeter.

Start at one side of the application area so you can pull the turf tight from the other side. This process is the most important, so your turf is attached securely and properly. Drive in the nails around the perimeter of the area. Install nails 2' to 4' feet in the middle. This ensures that the material is properly fixed to the base. Remember, the nails hold the edges of the turf in place, while the infill will actually weigh the material down.

8. You need to fluff the grass up with a rake or power broom so that the infill can be applied.

9. The final step is to add the infill material, available at your local Armstrong, of your choice. We recommend using approximately 2 lbs of infill material per square foot of turf. You will want to evenly apply the infill material on top of the turf with a drop spreader; if you don't have a drop spreader you can do it by hand but this process will be more time consuming.

We use #30 SandBlasting Sand. This sand does not have dust which is harmful to your lungs. This is a one time application. Then we use Durafill, available at your local Armstrong Garden Centers, on edges to cover nails and gives that finished look.

Silica Sand: Sand that has been tumbled to remove sharp edges

Sandblasting Sand: Sand that has been tumbled to remove sharp edges and screened to remove harmful dust

Durafill: Sand coated with a green poly product

10. Use a soft to medium bristled push broom to work the infill material into the turf. Keep working the infill material into the turf until the turf begins to stand upright. If you do not see the results you want, a flat-head rake is a good tool to use as well.
NOTE: It is important to make sure that you brush the infill material against the grain of the turf; this allows the infill to work its way to the base of the fibers correctly.This is the precision step; you must brush in the infill evenly so its appearance is consistent.

A simple check to make sure it's even is to walk over the turf and your feet will tell you if it's even or not. Work the infill in the turf until desired appearance is achieved. Once the infill is installed. There is no need to add any more for the life of your grass.

Request an Installation & Design appointment or ask a question.

Artificial Grass And Putting Greens

Thu, 10 May 2012 18:02:41 +0000

Get the look of a lush, green lawn year-round with virtually no maintenance. Today’s high-quality artificial grass looks real and is the cost effective, low maintenance solution to grass.
• No watering
• No mowing
• No fertilizers
• No pesticides

Fescue Artificial Grass
Fescue Supreme Artificial Grass
Putting Greens

Let Us Install and SAVE TIME
Let our California licensed contractors that are experts in artificial grass installation handle your project. We have installed thousands of lawns and putting greens and understand that precision in the installation will produce an artifical lawn that looks real and will last for years. Unlike many artificial grass installers, we don't take cost-cutting short cuts that affect the quality of your lawn. Our installations include:

• High-quality artificial grass & all need materials
• Labor
• Disconnecting existing sprinklers
• Re-routing sprinklers if needed
• Ground prepping (leveling or moving dirt)
• Base up to a 2-inches
• Weed barrier
• Galvanized nails 6-inch
• Landscapers seaming staples 6-inch
• Dustless silica sand infill 2-lbs. per square feet
• Top coat of green acrylic sand on edges
• Clean-up after installation
• 15-year warranty on product
• 10-year warranty on installation

Install Yourself and SAVE MONEY
Simple to install, trim and seam. We carry everything you need to install an artificial lawn that will last. Bring the dimensions of your lawn to your local Armstrong Garden Centers and an Armstrong Associate can help you with everything you need to install your artificial lawn – including installation instructions.
10 steps to install artificial grass

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Curb Appeal

Tue, 28 Feb 2012 16:23:07 +0000

Your landscape should appeal to the greatest
number of buyers and be 'neutral' and free of
extreme personal taste.
Unless the yard is poorly designed or badly
neglected, it's usually best not to replace the
landscape. Identify particularly objectionable
features and change or remove them.

Shrubs
In any landscape, shrubs provide the
'foundation'. Shrubs should be in scale with the
home. This is particularly true of plantings close
to the home. Cut back shrubs that cover windows or are taller than eaves. Shrubs that
completely cover walls should be thinned to show what's behind them.

Lawns
No other element has as great an impact as a cool, green lawn. Remove weeds,
fertilize, water and over-seed if necessary, to make the lawn lush and healthy. Mow
and edge weekly.

If the lawn is beyond repair, replace it. Avoid the temptation to extend the lawn into all
corners with minimal space for plantings - this type of yard looks quick and cheap. If
possible, extend the lawn from side to side to make the space look larger.

Trees
Trees have been shown to add significant value to homes. They shouldn't hide the
house or cast dark shadows. 'Light and bright' are operative words here. Remove or
thin out lower limbs of over-grown trees. Higher limbs can be further thinned out to add
light to the landscape below.

If you suspect a large or 'heritage' tree is not healthy or safe, you may wish to have it
evaluated by a certified arborist. Disclosing the condition of potentially problematic
trees could help you avoid costly litigation.

Entry and Front Door
The front door and entry walk should be easily seen from the street. Remove or cut
back plantings that obscure the view. Add seasonal color to make the front door stand
out.

7 Steps to a Successful Landscape

Thu, 23 Feb 2012 14:39:25 +0000

1. Planning & Design
Establish three water-use requirement zones. Group plants and turf with similar water needs in the same zone:
• Low: Requires little or no supplemental water after establishment.
• Moderate: Requires some supplemental water during dry periods.
• High: Limited areas where full water requirements are easily met.
The "high" zone should be the most visible area of the landscape, such as an entranceway or patio area. Helpful Tips:
• Plan for Shade : A shaded landscape can be as much as 20 degrees cooler and water evaporates less quickly than a planting area in full sun.
• Arbors, trellises, and fences with vine covers can be effective sources of shade and help retain moisture.
• Azaleas, dogwoods, redbuds, and Japanese maples are good choices for moderate water-use zones.

2. Soil Analysis
Test Your Soil
Take a sample of your soil and mail it to your local county extension office. Soil test kits are available at Pike Nurseries. The analysis will help you understand what is needed to encourage a strong, healthy root system. Strong roots help plants absorb moisture and survive drought.

Improve the Structure of Poor Soil
To check the structure of soil, dig a 12" to 15" hole. Fill the hole with water to see how fast it drains. If the water remains in the hole more than 12 hours, the soil is poorly drained. Improvements will vary based on soil structure. Helpful Tips:
• When planting trees and shrubs, dig holes at least 2 times wider than the root ball to encourage roots to grow outward.
• For soils that dry out rapidly, incorporate organic matter into the native soil throughout the planting bed.

3. Appropriate Plant Selection
Choose plants that will thrive in your local environment: Plants prone to drought stress, such as azaleas and dogwoods, prefer moist, well-drained soil, while more drought-resistant plants, such as crape myrtle and juniper, grow well on very dry sites. Place plants with high water requirements in areas that stay moist naturally, and plants with low-water requirements in drier areas. Helpful Tip: Native plants are not necessarily the most drought tolerant.

4. Practical Lawn Areas
Practical lawn areas include:
• Small areas near the home entrance
• Recreational areas
• A blanket of turf on a slope prone to erosion.
Irrigate turf only in high-impact, visible areas of the landscape. During drought periods, healthy turf-grass may wilt and turn gray or brown, but it should regain its normal color and growth when it receives adequate water. Design turf areas in practical shapes that can be mowed and irrigated easily. Avoid sharp angles and long, narrow strips.

5. Efficient Irrigation
Use more efficient irrigation methods. Drip irrigation systems and automatic controllers that detect rainfall and turn off the irrigation system, are good examples. Hand watering is effective for watering selected plants that show signs of drought-stress.

6. Use of Mulches
Mulches conserve moisture by slowing evaporation and maintaining even moisture. The best mulches to retain moisture are pine straw, pine-bark mini-nuggets, pine bark mulch or cypress mulch. Fine-texture mulches hold moisture better than coarse-textured mulches, such as large-nugget pine bark. Rock, gravel and marble are not as effective, since they absorb and re-radiate heat, increasing water-loss. Helpful Tips:
• Apply about 2-3 inches of mulch under ornamental plants. Use hands to pull mulch back 2-3 inches from the base of the tree or shrub to prevent wood rotting disease.
• Extend the mulched area 2-3 times the canopy spread to help protect outgrowing root systems.
• Place newspaper (2 sheets thick) or shredded newspaper under organic mulch to help conserve water. Wet the mulched area and newspapers thoroughly after applying the mulch.

7. Appropriate Maintenance
Generally, an established turf area needs only 1" of water once every 7 to 10 days. Over-watering encourages shallow root growth, causing grass to lose its ability to survive drought and low rainfall. Helpful Tips:
• Water in the early morning hours (between 4 a.m. and 8 a.m.) to slow down evaporation.
• Water slowly and deeply so soil absorbs water 6" to 8" deep.
• Use slow-release fertilizers and reduce application rate after establishment. This is particularly important prior to or during dry periods.
• Leave grass clippings on turf to supply recycled nutrients and reduce the need for additional fertilizer.
• During warm weather, raise the mower blade and cut the grass higher to encourage deeper rooting. This improves survival during drought and reduces water demand.
• Always keep the mower blades sharp. Dull blades shred leaf tips, causing the turf to use more water.
• Relieve soil compaction to increase air and water movement into the soil by aerating when required, especially on slopes.